I really love visiting Lebanon. But, as much as I understand it, and for the infinitely many things that I still don't understand, it stills sit well with me. I have, however, begun thinking about what it will be like living here if I get a job. The numbers simply don't add up.
I have probably mentioned before, and maybe too many times, that Lebanese people like to dress nicely. I think in fact, there are exactly two primary concerns in Lebanon.
1) Appearance
2) Food
So I walk around in the cities and check out their markets and shops looking for the signs of everyday living. What do I see? Of course, lots of food vendors, fruit markets, convenience stores, but also shoe shops and clothing stores. What else? Well, to be quite frank, only the barest necessities are otherwise represented. I'm not sure I can understand the obsession with clothing here. I understand wanting to be fashionable, but geez people.
A quick observation: Lebanon has its own fashion tv. I know fashion tv exists in other parts of the world, in fact USA and India have fashion tv. The difference is that fashion is nearly 24 hrs of Lebanese fashion designers. I didn't know all these designers existed! Of course the clothing looks like it was designed by some high end french or italian or american or spanish or japanese or taiwanese designer or wherever they all come from these days, but no. These are all Lebanese designers and most of them split their time between Beirut and Paris.
So, back to the news: There are a lot of clothing stores around here. But I can't possibly see how they all stay in business. Lebanese salaries are not that much, and clothing isn't that cheap. But somehow everyone is well dressed and there are more clothing stores than I can understand. In fact just this afternoon I was walking around town named Aley and just stopped at one random spot. In fact this spot happened to be in front of a technical school and a tire shop and decided to walk a block in each direction and count the clothing and shoe stores. Here are the results.
One block to the left on the north side of the street...
4 clothing stores and 2 shoe stores.
One block to the right 5 clothing stores and one shoe store. The other side of the street is a restaurant and hotel. However, this scene is a fairly good sample. Of course some of the hotels have clothing stores in them.
So, how do these number work? I have no idea. I can't possibly imagine one commodity being so immensely popular as to have such a huge share of the market. How do they do it?
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Monday, February 1, 2010
Gesticulations and Vocalizations
I've made many mentions of the Indian head bobbling. As was suggested by my parents' next door neighbor I would soon be bobbling. He was most certainly correct. I bobble my head now. Perhaps not with the voracity of natives, but it happens from time to time. Of course I have maintained my ability to SHAKE for NO and NOD for YES, I think this helps me out. It's very clear what I mean when asked a question.
In Lebanese I've been catching a little flack for being a bobble head. So I've been looking for Lebanese idiosyncrasies actively. I notice two particular things, one is apparently pan-mediterranean, and the other is more specifically a Lebanese thing (although perhaps has a German relative, and maybe the rest of europe as well).
The hand thing I call it. Most of the time it's a little subtle. It is a motion that people here make when they are talking even casually. It basically looks like the speaker is shooing away a fly at chest level combined with the hand signal for "come on."
It is usually subtle, but I find myself just picking up the faintest hint of it. When Mediterraneans get animated the hand starts going. It is especially apparent during dancing. The hand goes all the way to the sky with the arm slightly bent and the hand curled all the way so that the palm faces outward and the thumb and forefinger making an 'L'. Just watch some videos of 'dabke' to see what I mean.
The second thing which is perhaps more lebanese is a small vocalization of "oof" or more like 'if' or 'eif' or 'uf'. I definitely picked up this habit at home. However, I say "oof" or even "foof" combining my grandfather's "fooey" with "oof." This is said when we Americans might say "yeesh" or "yikes" or "oh my" or "ouch" perhaps "wow" with an extra pinch of pity thrown in for good measure. The funny thing about the way it is said here and the way I say it is that I lower the pitch of voice. The Lebanese raise the pitch of their voice significantly. So walking around Beirut you can hear grown men in fairly high pitched voices saying "iff" or however you spell it.
It's highly amusing to me, but I like the particular sound much better than I like the head bobbling. I guess it really comes from the idea that I actually understand its meaning whereas the head bobble, well, let's just say it's one of those things you never understand, you just get used to.
In Lebanese I've been catching a little flack for being a bobble head. So I've been looking for Lebanese idiosyncrasies actively. I notice two particular things, one is apparently pan-mediterranean, and the other is more specifically a Lebanese thing (although perhaps has a German relative, and maybe the rest of europe as well).
The hand thing I call it. Most of the time it's a little subtle. It is a motion that people here make when they are talking even casually. It basically looks like the speaker is shooing away a fly at chest level combined with the hand signal for "come on."
It is usually subtle, but I find myself just picking up the faintest hint of it. When Mediterraneans get animated the hand starts going. It is especially apparent during dancing. The hand goes all the way to the sky with the arm slightly bent and the hand curled all the way so that the palm faces outward and the thumb and forefinger making an 'L'. Just watch some videos of 'dabke' to see what I mean.
The second thing which is perhaps more lebanese is a small vocalization of "oof" or more like 'if' or 'eif' or 'uf'. I definitely picked up this habit at home. However, I say "oof" or even "foof" combining my grandfather's "fooey" with "oof." This is said when we Americans might say "yeesh" or "yikes" or "oh my" or "ouch" perhaps "wow" with an extra pinch of pity thrown in for good measure. The funny thing about the way it is said here and the way I say it is that I lower the pitch of voice. The Lebanese raise the pitch of their voice significantly. So walking around Beirut you can hear grown men in fairly high pitched voices saying "iff" or however you spell it.
It's highly amusing to me, but I like the particular sound much better than I like the head bobbling. I guess it really comes from the idea that I actually understand its meaning whereas the head bobble, well, let's just say it's one of those things you never understand, you just get used to.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
A cab, a bus, and another cab
Last night after the LSMS conference there was a big dinner. Since it was in Beirut and was going late I opted to stay with a cousin in Beirut rather than try to come back after midnight. So this morning I got up and had to make an interesting route back to the village. I had to catch a taxi from my cousin's room to an area called Cola. The cabbie didn't speak english so I had to attempt only arabic. I'm getting reasonably skilled at faking understanding arabic. I say very limited phrases and point and say yes and no a lot and then thanks when I understand where to go. So I ask for Cola (so named for an old soda bottling factory before the war) and then the 16 bus. It turns out the 16 bus is not actually a bus, but a run down van. So I jumped in with a couple soldiers and some workers and a disgruntled "bus" driver. I was able to read the signs in arabic and determine the route we were going and how much I was supposed to pay. Since I recognize the area around the village I got out a few miles away. I was instructed to call back to the village, but I found a taxi and miraculously managed to negotiate with him for a couple bucks to take me back to the village.
When I got here, my cousins all told me how worried they'd been since I left beirut. I chided them mildly saying I have traveled around Sri Lanka and India on my own and I didn't know where I was going. I made it back, it was a fun adventure I must say, and now I know a little bit about Lebanon's "public transit." I think getting from an apartment in Beirut to my little village in the mountains for something like $10. In Indian money that's a lot, but considering the distance and the idea that I had to take 2 taxis I can't say I minded. The "bus" driver drove like a madman as should be expected from any bus driver anywhere, so I got back in a timely fashion.
When I got here, my cousins all told me how worried they'd been since I left beirut. I chided them mildly saying I have traveled around Sri Lanka and India on my own and I didn't know where I was going. I made it back, it was a fun adventure I must say, and now I know a little bit about Lebanon's "public transit." I think getting from an apartment in Beirut to my little village in the mountains for something like $10. In Indian money that's a lot, but considering the distance and the idea that I had to take 2 taxis I can't say I minded. The "bus" driver drove like a madman as should be expected from any bus driver anywhere, so I got back in a timely fashion.
LSMS first annual meeting
Ostensibly I'm in Lebanon for the first annual meeting of the Lebanese Society of the Mathematical Sciences. I gave a talk on the first day (friday evening at 5 so no one showed up) but at least I went. It is nice for me to see Lebanon gaining some momentum in scientific research. At least it signals to me a relatively long period of peace. For too long the people have been concerned with protection and industry and all the other things that sort of lessen the effect or desire of scientific research. Moreover in times of war (at least in Lebanon) all the money has to go to immediately productive means, and science and scientific research just don't fit that bill.
Even with the momentum being gained for math(s) the majority is still applied mathematics. There were 35 talks and 20 of them were directly applied mathematics. Several others were in fields related to computer science and only about 1/4 were truly pure math. I guess I'm ok with that, but it was terribly boring for me to sit through nearly 20 talks on numerical methods for Partial Differential Equations when I have limited interest in even the most intriguing talk.
I should also mention that mathematics talks are generally boring. In fact, the common man needs no additional comment from this. It just appears to me that the mathematics community world wide is made up of some very clever individuals who have great dedication to an abstract art and have a very hard time communicating their ideas to others.
I think the only thing that I really noticed that was different about Lebanese mathematicians than others is that they dress nicely. Even that aspect of Lebanese culture hasn't escaped its mathematics community. All the Lebanese people dress nicely and that extends to the young generation and its mathematicians. I was told by two of my cousins that I needed to wear a suit to the conference and I said "it's not a business conference" but the entire older generation was wearing suits and the younger generation was wearing dress pants with nicely polished shoes, button down shirts neatly ironed with sweaters adorning them. That was probably the most bizarre thing about it. Otherwise it was another math conference nicely organized and the correct amount of boring.
Even with the momentum being gained for math(s) the majority is still applied mathematics. There were 35 talks and 20 of them were directly applied mathematics. Several others were in fields related to computer science and only about 1/4 were truly pure math. I guess I'm ok with that, but it was terribly boring for me to sit through nearly 20 talks on numerical methods for Partial Differential Equations when I have limited interest in even the most intriguing talk.
I should also mention that mathematics talks are generally boring. In fact, the common man needs no additional comment from this. It just appears to me that the mathematics community world wide is made up of some very clever individuals who have great dedication to an abstract art and have a very hard time communicating their ideas to others.
I think the only thing that I really noticed that was different about Lebanese mathematicians than others is that they dress nicely. Even that aspect of Lebanese culture hasn't escaped its mathematics community. All the Lebanese people dress nicely and that extends to the young generation and its mathematicians. I was told by two of my cousins that I needed to wear a suit to the conference and I said "it's not a business conference" but the entire older generation was wearing suits and the younger generation was wearing dress pants with nicely polished shoes, button down shirts neatly ironed with sweaters adorning them. That was probably the most bizarre thing about it. Otherwise it was another math conference nicely organized and the correct amount of boring.
Friday, January 29, 2010
Tonight's moon in Lebanon
I was walking this evening between my aunts' houses and looked at the big bright full moon. What I noticed was a ring around it. It looked like the clouds had formed a perfect circle with the moon in its center. I don't know what it was, I don't know exactly how to describe and I don't even know how to take a picture of it, but it is quite a beautiful and peculiar sight.
Anyone have any ideas what this phenomenon is called?
Anyone have any ideas what this phenomenon is called?
The Dubai Tower
The Burj Dubai opened a few weeks ago as I suppose most people are now aware. I had flown to Beirut threw Bahrain last time and only seen a glimpse of many tall buildings. Nothing special I suppose having lived in Chicago and seen the Sears Tower (not the willis tower or the big willie or whatever the hell they're calling it now) almost daily.
But flying into Dubai I knew I had to get at least a look at the world's new number 1. I didn't have a good view from the airplane sitting in the dead center seat. Dubai was also foggy and dark at 6:00 AM. But as I was walking to meet my next plane I saw it! The thing even in the darkness, even with the fog, still looms large. It is simply enormous. I can't even begin to describe how big that building is. I'm a little nonplussed with the whole idea of building another ridiculous skyscraper that wastes resources and contributes very little good to humanity, but seeing that building, even in the distance made me forget it all for a moment.I understand the good that this building brings from an intellectual point of view. New Engineering and Architecture techniques had to be developed to stand something up so high. It also has nice aesthetic appeal. But it is so big. (<--- words men generally like to hear...)
This tower dwarfs the Sears tower, doubles the hieght of the empire state building, completely embarrasses the CN tower, the Petronas Towers, the Taipei 101, and even dominates (by several hundred feet!) the TV mast in North Dakota. Bahrain had talked about building a tower just ten meters taller to have the record. THAT, I would object to. But this building is a work of art in many senses. I hope to go to the observation deck at some point in the "near" future just to see the view.
To you crazy Arabs in the gulf states, I know you like big buildings and showing off how much money you have, but DAMN, this time you really outdid yourselves.
But flying into Dubai I knew I had to get at least a look at the world's new number 1. I didn't have a good view from the airplane sitting in the dead center seat. Dubai was also foggy and dark at 6:00 AM. But as I was walking to meet my next plane I saw it! The thing even in the darkness, even with the fog, still looms large. It is simply enormous. I can't even begin to describe how big that building is. I'm a little nonplussed with the whole idea of building another ridiculous skyscraper that wastes resources and contributes very little good to humanity, but seeing that building, even in the distance made me forget it all for a moment.I understand the good that this building brings from an intellectual point of view. New Engineering and Architecture techniques had to be developed to stand something up so high. It also has nice aesthetic appeal. But it is so big. (<--- words men generally like to hear...)
This tower dwarfs the Sears tower, doubles the hieght of the empire state building, completely embarrasses the CN tower, the Petronas Towers, the Taipei 101, and even dominates (by several hundred feet!) the TV mast in North Dakota. Bahrain had talked about building a tower just ten meters taller to have the record. THAT, I would object to. But this building is a work of art in many senses. I hope to go to the observation deck at some point in the "near" future just to see the view.
To you crazy Arabs in the gulf states, I know you like big buildings and showing off how much money you have, but DAMN, this time you really outdid yourselves.
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Lebanese-Iranian Friendship Week
I've returned again to Lebanon. The trip in was entirely more fun than usual and it's because I got to sit in Business class from Chennai to Dubai. I was flying on Emirates which has an excellent reputation for service, and then got to sit business class. WOO!
On the flight I was seated next to an Iranian woman who is in fact my age and a medical doctor. I was surprised when she told me she lives in Iran because she wasn't wearing the Hijab. I asked her about covering her hair and she says in Iran she must. However, the moment she leaves Iran, she takes off the cover. Apparently she doesn't believe in Islam, but her family are all muslims and Iran has peculiar restriction about the dress of women and the religion of their people so she decided rather than to get in trouble at home to just put up with covering up. She hates it and made it clear to me. I told her I appreciated her honesty on the matter and it made me re-examine my thoughts on Iran as such. In Lebanon, I don't know if the feeling is wide-spread, but it's non-negligible that people feel Iran and Israel are fighting on Lebanese soil and so the Lebanese people are slightly soured on Iran in a similar way to Israel.
As soon as I was riding through the Hezbollah neighborhood next to Beirut's airport I started seeing signs for Lebanese-Iranian friendship week. I think in my own small way I contributed to this as did my Iranian doctor friend. I can't accept though that Lebanon and Iran are friends per se, but I understand the Lebanese not wanting to piss off Iran. As it turns out, Iran is a slightly scary political entity, because they are extreme and wealthy. I would go so far as to say Iran is more than slightly scary. But traveling changes the way I see things, and talking to a practicing doctor (who'd come to Chennai to look at medical equipment and work in an operating room in Chennai) really softened my stance on Iran. She believes that the majority of Iranians (especially the well educated) don't agree with the current regime and truly want change. I suspect Iran's "democracy" is a version of what Hezbollah (<---- not a fan) wants in Lebanon. A "we select the candidates and those who get to vote" style election.
So while I haven't softened my stance on Iran's political agenda and its consequences in Lebanon, I have been forced to revalue the way I see Iranian people, and indeed people from Muslim countries once again. I estimate that if I were able to sit down with each of them one-on-one for the amount of time I got to sit with this young female doctor from a strongly Islamic state, I'd find most of them as charming and intelligent and truly moderate as this young doctor. I'd be willing to bet a(n) (Indian) month's salary on it. Perhaps while traveling through the middle east I should take more time to speak with Saudis and Pakistanis and Iranians and all those coming from states I tend to deem politically unacceptable.
On the flight I was seated next to an Iranian woman who is in fact my age and a medical doctor. I was surprised when she told me she lives in Iran because she wasn't wearing the Hijab. I asked her about covering her hair and she says in Iran she must. However, the moment she leaves Iran, she takes off the cover. Apparently she doesn't believe in Islam, but her family are all muslims and Iran has peculiar restriction about the dress of women and the religion of their people so she decided rather than to get in trouble at home to just put up with covering up. She hates it and made it clear to me. I told her I appreciated her honesty on the matter and it made me re-examine my thoughts on Iran as such. In Lebanon, I don't know if the feeling is wide-spread, but it's non-negligible that people feel Iran and Israel are fighting on Lebanese soil and so the Lebanese people are slightly soured on Iran in a similar way to Israel.
As soon as I was riding through the Hezbollah neighborhood next to Beirut's airport I started seeing signs for Lebanese-Iranian friendship week. I think in my own small way I contributed to this as did my Iranian doctor friend. I can't accept though that Lebanon and Iran are friends per se, but I understand the Lebanese not wanting to piss off Iran. As it turns out, Iran is a slightly scary political entity, because they are extreme and wealthy. I would go so far as to say Iran is more than slightly scary. But traveling changes the way I see things, and talking to a practicing doctor (who'd come to Chennai to look at medical equipment and work in an operating room in Chennai) really softened my stance on Iran. She believes that the majority of Iranians (especially the well educated) don't agree with the current regime and truly want change. I suspect Iran's "democracy" is a version of what Hezbollah (<---- not a fan) wants in Lebanon. A "we select the candidates and those who get to vote" style election.
So while I haven't softened my stance on Iran's political agenda and its consequences in Lebanon, I have been forced to revalue the way I see Iranian people, and indeed people from Muslim countries once again. I estimate that if I were able to sit down with each of them one-on-one for the amount of time I got to sit with this young female doctor from a strongly Islamic state, I'd find most of them as charming and intelligent and truly moderate as this young doctor. I'd be willing to bet a(n) (Indian) month's salary on it. Perhaps while traveling through the middle east I should take more time to speak with Saudis and Pakistanis and Iranians and all those coming from states I tend to deem politically unacceptable.
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