Thursday, June 3, 2010

Chateau Briat

In my running around in Armagnac I had contacted a man by the name of Jean du Mareil. He works at Chateau Briat and is the original source of sending me the way of M. et Mme. Bouglon over in Labastide D'Armagnac. He has also informed me that I'd be able to sample some of the armagnacs at the estate. I definitely wanted to visit.

With the rental car I went over to Briat. It's about 10km away from Prada and not too difficult to find. It's a little out of the way, but then again, so is everything in Armagnac.

Before I had arrived, Stephane De Luze (the proprietor) had told me he'd be available and that I'd meet with him. He in fact is the sole heir to the company and the estate. Luckily for me, he speaks English since he did his university studies in the United States. A sad fact about him is that he came into the business by force. A little more than 5 years ago his parents died in a car accident and he, being the eldest son, immediately assumed the role of owner proprietor. Intrestingly enough, he doesn't do any of the distillation himself, but in fact ONLY takes care of the cellar and barrels. Someone else tends to the vines, makes the wine, bottles, etc, etc. I should also mention, that Briat is a tiny estate. Only 8 acres of vineyards. Basically each job requires one person only. There is one lady who bottles all the bottles BY HAND. I had no idea that distilleries still did that. I guess this is a small time operation and there is no need for huge automated machines performing every duty 1000 times a minute.

During my little visit, I got to tour the vineyards. In late April, grapes are beginning to grow and therefore I didn't get to eat any off the vines. I did, however, get to drink some of the finest brandy on this planet.

Quick aside: If you're really into brandy, might I suggest the following Armagnac houses...
Briat
Boigneres
Lacquy
Darroze
Prada
Tariquet

So, since stephane takes care of the cellars, we went through and he siphoned out a little brandy and wine from barrels. Apparently, not everything can be distilled, and so he keeps a few barrels of wine around as well. He's also interested in making a fortified wine, but I doubt that type of product will pick up much steam. Perhaps, for personal use. Amongst the things I got to taste were a glass of 2009 that had spent only 4 months in the barrel, a 2004 for straight from the barrel, and a 1987 (Baco grape only) straight from the barrel. The 2009 was shockingly mature. I think the grapes came out well, and the brandy took the correct mix of grapes from last year's harvest. In addition, the barrel is brand-spanking new, and so the coloration is happening rather more quickly. Forget all that though.

I tasted the 1987 straight from the barrel. If there has ever been a treat for anyone as great as that... I do not know what it might be. I was able to drink 23+ year old armagnac straight from a barrel. I should also mention that Stephane does not mix brandies often and almost never "tops up" (fill up one barrel once some liquor has evaporated). He's extremely dedicated to the quality of his beverage and it shows. He pumps air through an old barnhouse to let the armagnac breathe and has a particular way of stacking barrels to make sure certain brandies get more air than others. I was totally impressed. So, this brandy was sitting at around 44% ABV which means it's been sitting in a barrel long enough to lose about 13% alcohol to evaporation and pick up a really deep color (naturally, not by coloring additive).

Brandy nerds, you are officially allowed to be jealous!
All in all, I'd say it was a good day.

2 comments:

  1. Heidi got me some Tariquet XO for my birthday this year... it was absolutely fantastic. But I am still majorly, majorly jealous.

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